The Baker River is the silvery blue heart of Patagonia: the most voluminous river in Chile, and one of the rivers threatened by the HidroAysen mega-dam project. "
Los Escualos" are the kids that paddle the Baker. I joined their youth kayaking club for a 3-day trip from Cochrane (their home town) to Tortel, where the Baker empties tens of thousands of cubic feet of water into the ocean daily.