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Twenty-three days afloat in Arizona's Grand Canyon allows for epic side hikes, leisurely layover days, and complete immersion in river time. From Lee's Ferry and Nankoweap, to the Inner Gorge and Vishnu Canyon, to Thunder River and Havasu Canyon, to the famous Lava Falls and a final, bittersweet end in Lake Mead, my private trip did it's best to see it all.